Isfahan Province
Capital: Isfahan
Area: 104,650 Km2
Population: Approx. 4.4 million
This vast province is
the geographical centre of Iran, stretching from the
Dash-e Kavi desert in the north -east to within 150km of
the Persian Gulf in the south-west, and is crisscrossed
with many of the most important ancient and modern trade
routes in Iran. Though mostly arid, several high
mountains, such as Mt Karkas (3899m) and rivers such as
the mightily Zayande, dominate the landscape. The
province has many attractions, and is also renowned for
is fruit, particularly quinces and apples.
Isfahan
The cool blue tiles of Isfahan's Islamic buildings, and
the city's majestic bridges, contrast perfectly
perfectly with the hot, dry Iranian countryside around
it: Isfahan is a sight you won't forget. It's a city for
walking getting lost in the bazaar, dozing in beautiful
gardens, and meeting people (population: approximately
1.3 million). The famous half-rhyme Isfahan Nesf-e-Jahan
(Isfahan is half the world ) was coined in the 16th
century to express the city's grandeur.
Imam Khomeini Square
Still sometimes known as Naghsh-e-Jahan Square, this
huge, open square is one of the largest in the world
(500m by 160m), and a majestic example of town planning
Built in 1612, many of the most interesting sights in
Isfahan are clustered around the square, and it's a
place you just keep coming back to again and again. The
original goal posts from Shah Abbas polo ground are
still in place at the far ends of the square. One
charming but certainly touristy thing to do is to take a
ride on a horse and buggy around the square.
Mosques
If there is one mosque you should see in Iran, the
Masjed-e-Imam is it. Every other building in Isfahan
pales into insignificance.
Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah
This small mosque was built during Shah Abbas time, and
dedicated to his father-in-law, Sheikh Lotfollah, a holy
preacher. This beautifully proportioned and decorated
the century mosque, with some of the best mosaics from
that era, took nearly 20 years to complete. The pale
tiles of the dome change color, from cream through to
pink, depending on the light conditions and the mosque
is unusual because it has no minaret or courtyard.
The figure painted in the middle of the floor under the
dome is a peacock at certain times of the day. The
sunlight enhances the peacock's tail. The mosque was
once called the Women's Mosque, because there is
apparently a tunnel between this mosque and the Ali Qapu
palace, allowing women from the old dynasties to attend
prayers without being seen in public.
However after the majesty of the Imam mosque not far
away, many may find this mosque a disappoint intent.
Masjed-e Jame
This mosque is a museum of Islamic architecture: it
displays styles from the 11th century to the 18th
Ccntnry, from the 11th century to the 18th century, from
the stylish simplicity of the Seljuq period (1051-1220),
through the Mongol period (1220-1380) and on to the more
baroque, Safavid period. Parts of the mosque have even
been dated back to the Buyid dynasty which ruled part of
Persia for a few years in the 10th century.
Masjed-e-Imam
previously known as the Masjed-e-Shah, this magnificent
mosque is one of the most stunning buildings in Iran.
It's completely covered, inside and out, with the pale
blue tiles that have become an Isfahan trademark the
main dome (54m high) is double layered, and though the
entrance flanked with it's twin minarets (both 42m
high), faces squarely out onto the square, the mosque
itself is at an angle to face toward Mecca.
It was built over a period of 26 years by an
increasingly impatient 1st Shah Abbas, and eventually
completed in 1638.
The tiles of the mosque take on a different hue
according to the light conditions, and every hour brings
a new face to this wonder of the Islamic world. The
magnificent entrance portal, some 30m tall, is a supreme
example of architectural styles from the Saffvid
dynasty, combining sumptuous tile work and calligraphy,
complex stalactite moldings and a consummate use of
color and scale, setting the scene for the interior and
darlings the visitor who passes through its doorway
which is tiny in comparison to the portal.
Going through a short corridor, you then enter a halfway
leading into the inner courtyard which is surrounded by
four Eivans (halls). Three lead into vaulted sanctuary,
look out for a few black paving stones underneath the
dome, which when stamped upon create seven clear echoes.
Palaces
Ali Qapu Palace
This six storey palace was built in the 18th century on
a square paln as a functioning seat of government, and
included a huge pavilion from where Safavid rulers could
watch the activities in the square below. Many of the
valuable murals and mosaics which once decorated the
many small rooms corridors and stairways have been
destroyed, partly in the Ghajar period (1779-1921).
Chehel Sotun Museum & Park
This marvelous pavilion was built as a reception hall by
1st Shah Abbas in the 17th century. The name means "The
Forty Columns", and though there are only 20 columns, a
reflecting pool is provided to see the other 20. A more
mundane explanation is that 40 was once used
synonymously with' many' in the ancient Persian
language, and still is in some quarters. Six friezes
were painted on the inside walls, depicting such scenes
as the battle between Shah Abbas and the Uzbeks, and
Shah Tahmasb entertaining a king from Turkmenistan. One
of the interior domes is in a fairly good state of
repair, but the other two have only a few traces of gold
and other colors. The 67,000 sq meter gardens, with its
large pool (110m by 16m), are also superb, and worth a
wander around.
Hasht
Behesht Palace
This small Safavid garden palace, called Hasht Behasht
(Eight Paradises), was built in the 11th century.
Bridges
One of your lasting impressions of Isfahan will
undoubtedly be the old bridges which cross the Zayandeh
Roud river.
Si-o-Se Pol (33 Bridge)
Brid (4 of 33 Arches links the upper and lower halves of
Chahar Bagh St. this attractive bridge is 300m long and
It was built in 1602.
Pol-e Khaju (Khaju Bridge)
Built by Shah Abbas I from about 1650. It doubles as a
dam, and has always been as much a meeting place as a
functioning bearer of traffic.
It has two levels of terraces overlooking the river, the
lower contain locks regulating the flow of the river.
Shabrestan Bridge
Also known as the Jey bridge, this is the oldest of the
bridges spanning the river.
Jolfa
Is the Armenian quarter of Isfahan. It dates from the
time of Shah Abbas I, who set up this colony of
Christians from the town of Jolfa ( now on Iran's
northern border), and named the village 'New Jolfa".
The skills of these industrious merchants and enterers
were coveted, but the Armenians were kept in one area
and away from the Islamic centers. As Isfahan expanded,
Jolfa became another suburb, but the inhabitants have
always been predominantly Christian.
Vank
Cathedral
Built between 1655 and 1664 with the encouragement of
the Safavid rulers, this is the historic focal point of
the Armenian church in Iran.
Shaking Minarets
In Kaladyn, about 7km west of the city centre, is the
tomb of Abu Abdollah. The tomb is normally known as
Menar Jomban (shaking Minarets) because, in theory if
you shake one minaret it will start to sway back and
forth; and so will its twin.
Although by no means unique In this respect, the Shaking
Minarets are probably the most famous of their kind. The
minarets probably date from the Safavid period, though
the tome underneath was built in the 14th century. |